Cosmetic composition based on nonionic surfactants and cationic or amphoteric substantive polymers and its use as a dyeing or bleaching vehicle

Claim 1

Method for hair dyeing or bleaching using a composition which contains, in a cosmetically acceptable medium: a) 14 to 50% of a mixture of nonionic surfactants, the nonionic surfactants being fatty alcohols, oxyethylenated fatty alcohols, oxypropylenated fatty alcohols, polyglycerolated fatty alcohols whose fatty chain contains from 10 to 50 carbon atoms which are linear or branched, the mixture comprising at least one surfactant A whose HLB value is from 14 to 18.8, present at a weight concentration [A], surfactant A being a mixture of oxyethylenated fatty alcohols whose fatty chain contains from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, and a nonionic surfactant B whose HLB value as defined by Griffin is from 1 to 9.7, present in a weight quantity [B], surfactant B being a mixture of fatty alcohols whose fatty chain contains from 10 to 50 carbon atoms and oxyethylenated fatty alcohols whose fatty chain contains from 10 to 50 carbon atoms, said nonionic surfactants A and B satisfying the inequality: 0.5≦R≦1.6 in which R denotes the ratio R = ∑ ( n   C A × [ A ] ) ∑ ( n   C B × [ B ] ) in which: nC A is the number of carbon atoms in the fatty chain of the surfactant A and nC B the number of carbon atoms in the fatty chain of the surfactant B; and b) 0.05 to 10% of a cationic or amphoteric substantive polymer, the substantive polymer is: a quaternized protein consisting of a chemically modified polypeptide bearing a quaternary ammonium group at the end of the chain or grafted onto the latter; a cationic polysiloxane; a polyamine, polyaminoamide; a cyclopolymer having a molecular weight of 20, 000 to 3, 000, 000 which is a homopolymer containing as main constituent of the chain units corresponding to the formulae (II) or (II′): l and t are equal to 0 or 1, and the sum 1÷t=1; R 6 denotes hydrogen or methyl; R 4 and R 5 denote, independently of one another, an alkyl group having from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group has 1 to 5 carbon atoms or a lower amidoalkyl group, and where R 4 and R 5 jointly with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, can denote a heterocyclic group as well as copolymers containing units of formulae (II) or (II′) and units derived from acrylamide or from diacetoneacrylamide; Y ⊖ is an anion; a poly(quaternary ammonium) polymer containing recurring units corresponding to the formula: in which R 7 and R 8 , R 9 and R 10 , being identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or acrylaliphatic radicals containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic radical, or alternatively R 7 and R 8 and R 9 and R 10 , together or separately and with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, constitute heterocyclic optionally containing a second hetero atom other than nitrogen, or alternatively R 7 , R 8 , R 9 and R 10 represent a linear or branched C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical substituted with nitrile, ester, acyl or amide group or a group where R 11 is an alkylene and D a quaternary ammonium group; A 1 and B 1 represent polymethylene containing from 2 to 20 atoms, and X ⊖ denotes an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid, A 1 and R 7 and R 9 , with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, can form a piperazine ring; in addition, if A 1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B 1 can also denote a group (CH 2 ) n —CO—D—OC—(CH 2 ) n — in which D denotes: (i) a glycol residue of formula: —O—Z—O— where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group corresponding to the formulae: where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization, or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization; (ii) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative; (iii) a bis-secondary diamine of formula: —NH—Y—NH— where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or alternatively the divalent radical —CH 2 —CH 2 —S—S—CH 2 —CH 2 — X− is an anion; the poly(quaternary ammonium) polymers consisting of units of formula: in which R 12 , R 13 , R 14 and R 15 , which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, β-hydroxyethyl, β-hydroxypropyl or —CH 2 CH 2 (OCH 2 CH 2 ) p OH radical, where p is equal to 0 or an integer between 1 and 6, with the proviso that R 12 , R 13 , R 14 and R 15 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom; x and y, which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6; m is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34; x denotes a halogen atom; A denotes a radical of a dihalide; the poly(quaternary ammonium) polymers consisting of units of formula IVa: the poly(quaternary ammonium) polymers consisting of units of formula IVb: the poly(quaternary ammonium) polymers consisting of units of formula IVc: the poly(quaternary ammonium) polymers formed by the reaction of polymer of formula IVa with polymer of formula IVb; homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and containing the units in which R 18 denotes H or CH 3 ; A 2 is a linear or branched alkyl group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms; R 19 , R 20 and R 21 , which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical; R 16 and R 17 represent hydrogen or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; X ⊖ 2 denotes a methosulfate anion or a halide, the comonomer(s) belong to the family comprising acrylamide, methacrylamide, diacetoneacrylamide, acrylamide and methacylamide substituted on the nitrogen with lower alkyl groups, acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl esters; the composition being stable at room temperature and at a pH above or equal to 5.5, comprising applying the composition to hair as an oxidative hair dyeing or bleaching vehicle compositions.