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US3884166A Expired / Lapsed US ⏱️ 0.0 years remaining

Method for making shirt cuffs

Assignee: EAGLE SHIRTMAKERS Inc
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Filing: 1973-05-07
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Granted: 1975-05-20
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Expires: 1993-05-07
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Abstract

Abstract A method and apparatus for producing a multiply fabric or clothing material unit such as a shirt cuff or the like. A continuous strip of material is fed to a stitching head, and precut fabric pieces are placed on the strip at a positioning station in end to end relation to each other. The continuous strip conveys the fabric pieces through the apparatus. A side edge of each fabric piece is folded around a side edge of the strip by a folder and the folded piece is stitched to the strip by the stitching head. The continuous strip can be fed and stitched continuously or intermittently. The strip with the pieces stitched to it is fed to a cutter where the strip is cut into individual pieces along the ends of the fabric pieces. The cutter is actuated in response to sensing an end edge of a fabric piece sewn to the strip. Feed of the strip at the cutter is arrested by a blocking mechanism including a slip clutch, ratchet wheel, and pawl which blocks the feed so cutting occurs while the strip is stationary. Resumption of feeding at the cutter is prevented until after the severed piece is moved from a position in the path of travel of the strip. To prevent jamming at the cutter, the control arrangement includes two sensing devices for sensing the proper feeding of the strip. Failure of either sensing device to operate prevents actuation of the cutter thereby avoiding the danger of severing the strip except when the feed is operating properly. A unique feed roller arrangement grips the strip and clothing material pieces across the width of the strip to ensure proper tensioning and feeding at the stitching head.

Inventors

  • 👤 Elwood Rinehimer
  • 👤 Donald M Walters
  • 👤 Sr Kenneth L Jarrett

Bibliographic Details

Application Number —
Jurisdiction US
Data Source google_patents
Last Synchronized 2026-10-28 09:49
CPC Classifications
D; D05; D05B; D05B33/00; D05B33/02; D05B33/006; D05B41/00; D05D; D05D2207/00; D05D2207/02; D05D2207/04; D05D2303/00; D05D2303/20; D05D2305/00; D05D2305/02; D05D2305/04; D05D2305/08; D05D2305/12; D05D2305/14; Y; Y10; Y10T; Y10T83/00; Y10T83/525; Y10T83/541; Y10T83/543

Claims Analysis

Total Claims: 38
Claim 1
Independent Claim 96 words
A method of stitching fabric to an unbroken strip of material comprising, the steps of continuously feeding an unbroken strip of material to a continuously operating stitching head; placing a plurality of pieces of precut fabric onto the continuous strip in spaced longitudinal relation with each other; successively folding on edge of each piece of fabric around a side edge of the strip as said strip advances; longitudinally stitching said pieces of fabric to the strip along said folded edge with the stitching head; and severing the strip along the space between the stitched fabric pieces.
Claim 2
Independent Claim 96 words
A method of stitching fabric to an unbroken strip of material comprising, the steps of continuously feeding an unbroken strip of material to a continuously operating stitching head; placing a plurality of pieces of precut fabric onto the continuous strip in spaced longitudinal relation with each other; successively folding on edge of each piece of fabric around a side edge of the strip as said strip advances; longitudinally stitching said pieces of fabric to the strip along said folded edge with the stitching head; and severing the strip along the space between the stitched fabric pieces.
Claim 3
Dependent Claim 71 words
A method according to claim 1 wherein the step of placing said fabric pieces includes placing pieces of fabric directly upon said continuous strip for conveyance thereby to said stitching head; and the step of folding an edge of each fabric piece around a side edge of the strip includes folding the fabric while holding the fabric against the strip so the fabric piece and strip move at the same speed.
Claim 4
Dependent Claim 38 words
A method according to claim 1 wherein said step of stitching includes continuously stitching from a first fabric piece to a second fabric piece and through the portion of the strip in the space between the fabric pieces.
Claim 5
Dependent Claim 38 words
A method according to claim 1 wherein said step of feeding the continuous strip includes periodically feeding the strip a distance not exceeding the length of a stitch formed in the strip, and continuously feeding the strip periodically.
Claim 6
Dependent Claim 43 words
A method according to claim 1 wherein the step of feeding the continuous strip includes GRIPPING the strip and fabric piece thereon across the entire width of the strip and fabric piece, and pulling the strip and fabric piece through the stitching head.
Claim 7
Dependent Claim 149 words
A method according to claim 1 wherein the method further includes placing said pieces of precut fabric on the strip in space apart end to end relation and stitching the pieces to the strip in sequence; and said step of severing the strip includes sensing the location of a space between fabric pieces, sensing, the location of a piece to be severed adjacent the downstream side of a cutter, stopping the feed of stitched strip and fabric pieces in response to sensing said space between fabric pieces with a space between fabric pieces aligned with said cutter while continuing to stitch additional fabric pieces to the strip, sensing the stopping of said strip feed, and severing an end fabric piece from the strip with said cutter upon simultaneous sensing of said space between fabric pieces, said location of a piece to be severed, and said stopping of strip feed.
Claim 8
Dependent Claim 31 words
A method according to claim 6 wherein the method further includes conveying the severed end piece away from the sewn strip before resuming the feeding of the strip to the cutter.
Claim 9
Independent Claim 124 words
A method of producing a stitched multilayer fabric unit as an intermediate in the production of a shift cuff comprising, the steps of continuously feeding a continuous length of lining material to a stitching head; placing a plurality of shirt fabric pieces directly onto the liner in aligned end to end relation to each other so end edges of adjacent fabric pieces are close to each other; transporting said placed fabric pieces to said stitching head by said continuously fed liner; folding a side edge of each shirt fabric piece around a side edge of the liner; stitching the shirt fabric pieces in sequence to the liner along the folded edge thereof; and severing the lining adjacent an end edge of each fabric piece.
Claim 10
Independent Claim 124 words
A method of producing a stitched multilayer fabric unit as an intermediate in the production of a shift cuff comprising, the steps of continuously feeding a continuous length of lining material to a stitching head; placing a plurality of shirt fabric pieces directly onto the liner in aligned end to end relation to each other so end edges of adjacent fabric pieces are close to each other; transporting said placed fabric pieces to said stitching head by said continuously fed liner; folding a side edge of each shirt fabric piece around a side edge of the liner; stitching the shirt fabric pieces in sequence to the liner along the folded edge thereof; and severing the lining adjacent an end edge of each fabric piece.
Claim 11
Dependent Claim 36 words
A method according to claim 8 wherein said step of severing the lining adjacent an end edge of each fabric piece includes severing the lining in the space between the fabric pieces sewn to the lining.
Claim 12
Dependent Claim 53 words
A method according to claim 8 wherein said step of feeding lining material to a stitching head includes feeding the lining material continuously in timed relation to a sewing needle of the stitching head; and said step of stitching includes continuously stitching through the lining material and shirt fabric pieces on the lining.
Claim 13
Dependent Claim 48 words
A method according to claim 8 wherein said step of severing the liner includes sensing the location of an end edge of a fabric piece, and severing the fabric along a different end edge of a fabric piece in response to sensing the edge of the fabric piece.
Claim 14
Dependent Claim 75 words
A method according to claim 8 wherein said step of feeding the lining material to a stitching head includes continuously feeding the lining strip to a stitching head; the step of severing the lining strip includes feeding the lining and stitched fabric pieces through a cutter, sensing the location of an end edge of a fabric piece, stopping the lining strip in aligned relation to the cutter, and cutting the strip while it is stopped.
Claim 15
Dependent Claim 163 words
Apparatus for producing multi-ply clothing material units as a step in the manufacture of shirt cuffs and the like, comprising in combination a stitching device; supply means for supplying a continuous strip of material to the stitching device; positioning means between the supply means and the stitching device for facilitating the positioning of individual pieces of clothing material directly onto the continuous strip in end to end relation; guide means for guiding the continuous strip to the stitching edge with an edge of the strip in predetermined relation to the stitching device; folder means for folding a side of a clotHing material piece on the strip around a side edge of the strip; feed means adjacent the stitching device for engaging said feeding the strip and a clothing material piece thereon through the stitching device; and means for continuously driving said stitching device and feed means so that the strip and clothing material pieces theron are moved and stitched continuously by the apparatus.
Claim 16
Dependent Claim 163 words
Apparatus for producing multi-ply clothing material units as a step in the manufacture of shirt cuffs and the like, comprising in combination a stitching device; supply means for supplying a continuous strip of material to the stitching device; positioning means between the supply means and the stitching device for facilitating the positioning of individual pieces of clothing material directly onto the continuous strip in end to end relation; guide means for guiding the continuous strip to the stitching edge with an edge of the strip in predetermined relation to the stitching device; folder means for folding a side of a clotHing material piece on the strip around a side edge of the strip; feed means adjacent the stitching device for engaging said feeding the strip and a clothing material piece thereon through the stitching device; and means for continuously driving said stitching device and feed means so that the strip and clothing material pieces theron are moved and stitched continuously by the apparatus.
Claim 17
Dependent Claim 51 words
Apparatus according to claim 13 wherein said stitching device includes a reciprocating needle; and said feed means includes means for gripping the strip and a clothing material piece thereon across the width of the strip and piece, and for feeding the strip and piece in timed relation to the reciprocating needle.
Claim 18
Dependent Claim 84 words
Apparatus according to claim 14 wherein said feed means comprises a drive roller, means for urging the strip and piece against the drive roller, oscillating means connected to said drive roller; first clutch coupling means between said drive roller and oscillating means for driving said roller in one direction only in response to a drive stroke of said oscillating means, and said clutch means connected to the drive roller for preventing reverse rotation of said roller during a return stroke of the oscillating means.
Claim 19
Dependent Claim 71 words
Apparatus according to claim 13 wherein said guide means includes an elongated guide engaging the edge of the continuous strip; and said positioning means includes a second guide spaced from the first guide by a distance approximating the width of a piece of clothing material, said first and second guides cooperating with a flat platform to form a generally U-shaped channel through which said strip and said clothing material pieces pass.
Claim 20
Dependent Claim 37 words
Apparatus according to claim 16 wherein said positioning means further includes hopper means for holding a supply of clothing material pieces adjacent the platform to facilitate placing the individual pieces on the continuous strip at the platform.
Claim 21
Dependent Claim 72 words
Apparatus according to claim 13 wherein said folder means comprises said hold down means for urging a clothing material piece against the continuous strip, folding means for engaging an overhanging edge of a clothing material piece and folding the edge around a side edge of the strip, and second hold down means for holding the folded edge of a clothing piece folded while passing the strip and piece through the stitching device.
Claim 22
Dependent Claim 67 words
Apparatus according to claim 18 wherein the first hold down means includes a foot, elongated in the direction of travel of the strip and of a width less than the width of a clothing material piece on the strip, and support means supporting the foot along the path of travel of the strip whereby the foot engages a clothing material piece and presses it against the strip.
Claim 23
Dependent Claim 101 words
Apparatus according to claim 18 wherein said folding means comprises a platform of a width approximating the width of the strip and having a side edge adjacent a side edge of the strip, a folder of arcuate configuration extending around the side edge of the platform in spaced relation to the edge, the folder having an inlet and an outlet, and means mounting the folder with its outlet closer to the side edge of the strip than its inlet so that a side edge of a clothing material piece on the strip is rolled around a side edge of the strip.
Claim 24
Dependent Claim 47 words
Apparatus according to claim 18 wherein said stitching device comprises a sewing machine having a presser foot support; and said second hold down means includes a presser foot of a width approximating the width of the strip, connected to the presser foot support, and engaging the strip.
Claim 25
Dependent Claim 52 words
Apparatus according to claim 13 wherein the apparatus further includes a cutter; sensing means for sensing an end edge of a clothing material piece stitched to the strip, and means responsive to said sensing means for actUating the cutter to cut the strip adjacent an end edge of the clothing material piece.
Claim 26
Dependent Claim 205 words
Apparatus for producing multi-ply clothing material units comprising, in combination a stitching device; means for continuously operating the stitching device; supply means for supplying a continuous strip of material to the stitching device; positioning means between the supply means and the stitching device for facilitating the positioning in sequence of individual pieces of clothing material on the continuous strip; folder means for folding a side edge of a clothing material piece on the strip around a side edge of the strip; first feed means adjacent the stitching device for engaging and feeding the strip and clothing material pieces thereon continuously through the stitching device in sequence; a cutter beyond the stitching device for cutting the continuous strip at a predetermined location relative to an end edge of a clothing material piece stitched to the strip; second feed means, beyond said first feed means in the direction of travel of the strip, for intermittently feeding the sewn strip from the stitching device to the cutter means; sensing means for sensing the supply of stitched strip from the stitching device; and means responsive to said sensing means for deactivating said second feed means in response to a lack of supply of stitched strips from the stitching device.
Claim 27
Dependent Claim 205 words
Apparatus for producing multi-ply clothing material units comprising, in combination a stitching device; means for continuously operating the stitching device; supply means for supplying a continuous strip of material to the stitching device; positioning means between the supply means and the stitching device for facilitating the positioning in sequence of individual pieces of clothing material on the continuous strip; folder means for folding a side edge of a clothing material piece on the strip around a side edge of the strip; first feed means adjacent the stitching device for engaging and feeding the strip and clothing material pieces thereon continuously through the stitching device in sequence; a cutter beyond the stitching device for cutting the continuous strip at a predetermined location relative to an end edge of a clothing material piece stitched to the strip; second feed means, beyond said first feed means in the direction of travel of the strip, for intermittently feeding the sewn strip from the stitching device to the cutter means; sensing means for sensing the supply of stitched strip from the stitching device; and means responsive to said sensing means for deactivating said second feed means in response to a lack of supply of stitched strips from the stitching device.
Claim 28
Dependent Claim 46 words
Apparatus according to claim 23 wherein said first feed means comprises strip drive means engaging said strip and a clothing material piece thereon across a substantial portion of the width of the strip, and means responsive to said stitching device for driving the strip feed means.
Claim 29
Dependent Claim 64 words
Apparatus according to claim 23 wherein said apparatus further includes motor means for driving said second feed means; said sensing means includes a dancer roller between said first feed means and second feed means, said strip extending around the roller, and current control means for deactivating the motor means in response to movement of the dancer roller to a predetermined position by said strip.
Claim 30
Dependent Claim 91 words
Apparatus according to claim 23 wherein said folder means includes a hold down foot of a width less than the width of the continuous strip and engaging the strip and a clothing material piece thereon to hold the piece against the strip for movement with the strip, a beveled guide for guiding a clothing material piece beneath the hold down foot, and means mounting the hold down foot free floating with respect to the continuous strip so that the weight of the foot holds the clothing material piece against the strip.
Claim 31
Dependent Claim 61 words
Apparatus according to claim 23 wherein said positioning means includes a platform, open and unobstructed, and across which the continuous strip extends, and parallel guide fence means at opposite sides of the platform for facilitating the manual positioning of clothing pieces onto the strip, said guide fence means being spaced apart a distance approximating the width of a clothing material piece.
Claim 32
Dependent Claim 118 words
Apparatus according to claim 13, further including a cutter beyond the stitching device: feed means for feeding the stitched strip to the cutter; first sensing means for sensing and end edge of a clothing material piece; blocking means responsive to the firt sensing means for blocking the feed means to stop the feed of the strip with an edge of the strip aligned with the cutter; cutter operating means responsive to the blocking means for actuating the cutter; second sensing means for sensing the piece severed from the strip; and means responsive to said second sensing means for maintaining the strip feed blocked so long as the severed piece is in the path of travel of the strip.
Claim 33
Dependent Claim 77 words
Apparatus according to claim 28 wherein said cutter is a reciprocating cutter; a means for removing the severed strip from thE path of travel of the strip is responsive to a downward stroke of the cutter; said blocking means is responsive to said first and second sensing means to unblock the feed means; and the cutter operating means returns the cutter to its initial position in response to operation of the blocking means to its unblocking condition.
Claim 34
Dependent Claim 67 words
Apparatus according to claim 28 wherein said feed means comprises a strip feed mechanism; a motor continuously rotating to drive the feed mechanism, a slip clutch between the motor and the feed mechanism, said blocking means being between said slip clutch and said feed mechanism to stop the feed mechanism in response to actuation of the blocking means while allowing said motor to rotate said slip clutch
Claim 35
Dependent Claim 74 words
Apparatus according to claim 30 wherein said blocking means includes a toothed wheel between the slip clutch and feed mechanism, and a pawl mounted for movement between a first position spaced from the wheel and a second position in the path of travel of the teeth of the wheel; said blocking means including means for moving the pawl to the second position to engage the wheel and stop the feed mechanism of the strip.
Claim 36
Dependent Claim 30 words
Apparatus according to claim 30 wherein the apparatus further includes control means responsive to depletion of the supply of material available at the feed means for deactivating the motor means.
Claim 37
Dependent Claim 128 words
A method according to claim 8 wherein said step feeding the lining material to a stitching head includes continuously feeding the lining strip to a stitching head; and the step of severing the lining strip includes sensing the presence of a space between fabric pieces, sensing the presence of an end fabric piece to be severed adjacent the downstream side of a cutter, interrupting the feed of stitched liner in response to sensing said space between fabric pieces with a space between pieces aligned with said cutter, sensing the stopping of said stitched liner, and severing said end fabric piece from the strip with said cutter upon simultaneous sensing of said space between fabric pieces, said presence of an end piece, and said stopping of stitched strip feed.
Claim 38
Dependent Claim 56 words
A method according to claim 33 further including the steps of conveying said severed end piece away from the stitched strip in response to completion of said cutting step, and withdrawing said cutter and restarting advancement of said stitched strip in response to the absence of a fabric piece adjacent the downstream side of said cutter.

References Cited (Backward Citations)

US2521360A Cited
US3670679A Cited
US3796117A Cited
US3785307A Cited

USPTO Annuity & Maintenance Windows

Annuity Stage Window Opens Payment Deadline Surcharge Period Until Estimated Fee Status
3.5 Years (Year 4) 1978-05-19 1978-11-18 1979-05-20 $2000.00 Window Closed / Lapsed
7.5 Years (Year 8) 1982-05-19 1982-11-18 1983-05-20 $3760.00 Window Closed / Lapsed
11.5 Years (Year 12) 1986-05-19 1986-11-18 1987-05-20 $7700.00 Window Closed / Lapsed

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