Process and composition for permanent waving

Claim 2

A process for effecting the reducing step in permanent waving which comprises treating the hair with an aqueous solution containing from about 18 to 30% by weight of an ester of thioglycolic acid, said ester being selected from the group consisting of lower alkyl, hydroxy-lower alkyl and glyceryl esters, and having a pH of about 6.4 to 8.3, for about 1 to 35 minutes at a temperature from about 80° to 130° F., with the time and temperature parameters being selected as follows: ______________________________________ Concen- tration of Reducing Agent in % by weight 18-22 23-27 28-30 18-22 28-30 pH 6.4-7.0 7.1-7.7 7.8-8.3 7.8-8.3 6.4-7.0 Time in Minutes 3-35 2-33 1-30 2-33 2-33 Temp. in ° F. 100-130 90-125 80-120 90-125 90-125 ______________________________________

Claim 3

A process according to claim 1 wherein the ester is a glyceryl ester.

Claim 4

A process according to claim 2 wherein the concentration of the ester is about 18 to 22% by weight, the pH is about 6.4 to 7.0, the time range is about 3 to 35 minutes and the temperature is about 100° to 130° F.

Claim 5

A process according to claim 2 wherein the concentration is about 23-27% by weight, the pH is about 7.1 to 7.7, the time range is about 2 to 33 minutes, and the temperature is about 90° to 125° F.

Claim 6

A process according to claim 2 wherein the concentration is about 28 to 30% by weight, the pH is about 7.8 to 8.3, the time range is about 1 to 30 minutes, and the temperature is about 80° to 120° F.

Claim 7

A process according to claim 2 wherein the aqueous solution contains about 0.5 to 2.0% by weight of thioglycollic acid.

Claim 8

A process according to claim 6 wherein the solution has about 23.5% by weight of glyceryl thioglycolate, about 1.5% by weight of thioglycollic acid, a pH of about 6.8, and the times and temperatures for different types of hair are as follows: ______________________________________ TIME IN DEGREE OF TEMP. MINUTES ± 10 HAIR TYPE POROSITY + 1° C. SECONDS ______________________________________ Bleached Highly - 85 3 Slightly Very Slightly - 85 5 None Tinted Highly - 95 7 Normal Normal - 95 8.5 Very Slight Very Slight - 95 10 None Normal Highly - 115 12.5 Normal Normal 115 14.25 Very Slight Very Slight - 115 16 None Resistant Highly 125 20 Normal Normal - 125 22 Very Slight Very Slight - 125 24 None ______________________________________

Claim 9

A process according to claim 2 wherein the solution has about 18.0% by weight of glyceryl thioglycolate, a pH of about 6.4, and the times and temperatures for different types of hair are as follows: ______________________________________ TIME IN DEGREE OF TEMP. MINUTES ± 10 HAIR TYPE POROSITY ± 1° F. SECONDS ______________________________________ Bleached Highly - 90 5 Slightly Very Slightly - 90 7 None Tinted Highly - 100 9 Normal Normal - 100 11 Very Slight Very Slight - 100 13 None Normal Highly - 120 15 Normal Normal - 120 17 Very Slight Very Slight - 120 19 None Resistant Highly - 130 23 Normal Normal - 130 25 Very Slight Very Slight - 130 27 None ______________________________________

Claim 10

A process according to claim 6 wherein the solution has about 20.0% by weight of glyceryl thioglycolate, about 0.5% by weight of thioglycolic acid, a pH of about 7.3, and the times and temperatures for different types of hair are as follows: ______________________________________ TIME IN DEGREE OF TEMP. MINUTES ± 10 HAIR TYPE POROSITY ± 1° F. SECONDS ______________________________________ Bleached Highly - 80 2 Slightly Very Slightly - 80 3 None Tinted Highly - 90 4 Normal Normal - 90 5 Very Slight Very Slight - 90 6 None Normal Highly - 110 8 Normal Normal - 110 9 Very Slight Very Slight - 110 10 None Resistant Highly - 120 12 Normal Normal - 120 14 Very Slight Very Slight - 120 14 None ______________________________________