Method of surf generation

Abstract

Abstract A tapered enclosure for a body of water has a wave generator positioned in a relatively narrow and deeper end. In one form, the wave generator is a buoyant plunger mounted for vertical reciprocation within a chamber having a shorewardly facing opening. Through a cyclic control system, the plunger is driven in phase with the forces of gravity and buoyancy acting thereon, starting from a rest position through strokes of increasing amplitude until a desired steady state is attained to sequentially produce waves of a desired energy. Provision is made for varying the mass of the plunger and varying the input from a prime mover as a means of adjusting wave energy and frequency. An alternative single-wave generator comprises an open bottom water-tight enclosure having air purge valves on its upper face and connected to a prime mover for raising the tank. Upon lowering, the purge valves open, allowing air to escape from the tank while the open lower end of the tank enters the water for filling to a predetermined level. Upon the tank being pulled upwardly, with the purge valves closed, a volume of water contained within the tank is upwardly displaced, above still water level, and released when the hydrostatic equilibrium between the contained water and the outer water is upset, as when the open lower end of the tank breaks the surface of the water. The tapered planform and sloping floor of the enclosure provide a wave energy conserving contour, so oriented with respect to the generator as to provide a primary wave break trajectory of optimum length for the area utilized by the system. A compound floor curvature may be provided to define a wave regenerating cavity to form a secondary wave out of the energy of a previously broken primary wave. A water inlet is disposed adjacent the wave generator and an outlet or outlets are disposed adjacent a point or points of wave dissipation, along the shallow end of the enclosure, to provide a circulatory system adapted for convenient monitoring and maintaining of optimum water quality.

Inventors

• 👤 G Richard
• 👤 E Richard

Bibliographic Details